A Morning at the Port, Before the Gulls
The blue boats come in at dawn. Set an alarm once during your stay; it is the best hour in Essaouira.
Go at seven
The fishing boats return between six and eight. By nine the best of the catch has gone to the restaurants and the gulls have taken the rest.
Watch the auction
Sardines, sea bream and spider crabs are sold by the crate in a quick, loud auction. Nobody minds you watching, but keep out of the way of the carts.
Eat at the grills
Buy a fish from the stalls by the port gate and they will grill it for you on the spot. It's the best breakfast in town.
